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Maria and Alex

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Maria and Alex last won the day on February 16 2018

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  1. filling in really nice, great colour, keep it up
  2. thats a nice pic of the acan garden, not to blue really showing of there lovely red colours and patterns the tank is starting to fill in nicely as things grow will become very nice
  3. seems a little high, silica is hard to remove from the water even with a RO/DI unit, you can get a second DI cartridge with special silica removing beads, though i am not sure about availability in Norway https://www.amazon.com/SpectraPure-Silicabuster-Color-Indicating-Cartridge/dp/B008I08RLI
  4. looks like some very nice corals, acanthophyllia in particular
  5. there are many methods for Kuring the dead rock, some are slow like just putting in a container with some water changes (tip start with just RO water as many water changes will be needed and with salt its costly and not needed add salt after a few weeks when po4 is lower and ammonia is gone) you can speed this up with pressure washing to remove any lose material and soaking in chlorine or acid to remove organic material in the rock, then add to a container (RO again to start) to start kuring
  6. its hard to recommend one or one combination as so much is down to what you like the look of, personally i very much like ATI bulbs and on youtube there are some very good comparison videos of the different bulbs they produce and different combinations redsea and aquamedic also do some nice bulbs but more just in white or blue simple but effective hope that will help with what you was looking for
  7. redsea no3po4x for the last 3 years, 2ml a day in 250l and 5ml a day in 800l both mixed reef systems, works to well really no3 often reads undetectable on salifert test kits, po4 is normally stable between 0.04-0.08 but creep up a little when no3 gets really close to 0, as a result i am actually thinking of adding no3 to the tank as potassium nitrate, this will let the no3po4x work to maintain a lower level of po4 and stop corals starving with to little nutrients. i like the no3po4x as its just on a dosing pump and dose its job the big 5l container lasts a long time before i used a diy algae turf scrubber for 1 year on a minimally stocked 250l system, this worked ok keeping nitrates around 2 and po4under 0.08, the unit was ok but like with a refugium the light source is most important and the ATS needs weekly cleaning so works ok but is not consistent in its removal of nutrients
  8. loving the sump updates, just curious to what bulbs your using there, and why you went with them over a red grow lap, more like what was in the algae turf scrubber
  9. hey Jostein welcome to the forum and hopefully welcome to the salty side, i think you have the right attitude coming into this and thats a very important start to many people try rushing to fast. as stated going with the biggest tank you can reasonably afford to begin with is a good thing it gives you the biggest options with fish and saves on later upgrade costs, given the size of freshwater tanks you keep if you have space i would recommend a 300-400ll setup this will enable to you keep most fish particularly some of the tangs and angelfish that dont do well in smaller tanks that are some of the showier attractive fish. (research a few fish you would like and if they are easily available, this will tell you minimum tank size) equipment/method wise there are a few schools of thought again do a little research; there are some good information on youtube one channel BRS TV have done some very good experiments and test a lot of equipment, from your points i think a skimmer is likely a yes they do a great job in filtration and aerating the water keeping it stable, osmoseanlegg i would recommend, good water to start can save you many problems later, cost is not so much when you compare to 1 fish, however water hear in Norway is quite clean and chemical free so it may depend on you local area, you can also use natural sea water if a good source is local. UV i would say no, i think its a little waste of money unless you buy expensive professional unit. my two biggest things to advise would be get a tank with a sump, this is much better then having equipment in the display tank and mostly makes things easier to maintain. secondly would be a quarantine/hospital tank, with coral, shrimp and snail in the tank there are very few medications that will help the fish without poisoning these sensitive animals so a second small tank (60-100l) helps very much and is often overlooked by all. with the cost of fish in the 500,- to 1500,- mark it is wise to keep new fish in this tank make sure they are health and eating well before putting them into a potentially stressful tank of other fish.
  10. i am not sure the thickens/quality is the same, as with aquarium brands not all are equal. One that is thin could be a problem as it falls apart very fast when wet. otherwise they are made of the same thing and will give the same nutrition to the fish. it should be cheaper or at least more in a pack; i know its been used in the UK and USA mostly by guys with larger tanks and many tangs
  11. the red sea should be better at the low end then the salifert test, though agree the salifert one is easy to use and gives you a good idea of the general range and thats real all you need. how old is the test, how long has it been open? it could be a change in the chemicals if its been open a long time, if i remember correctly both parts A and B are liquid
  12. had some looking similar a week or two back, for sure a type of snail egg, i got a few different ones in the tank but i would go with Nerite as well, seen very similar from freshwater Nerites a number of times
  13. for only a bristleworm its not a big deal, however for other worms like the bobbit (eunice) worm they can reproduce through division. if the rest of your clean up crew eat the remaining part of the worm and whats come out of it then it just like any other food. it may be worth laying a bottle trap for bristleworms if you have some that large as they can be a little predatory once large enough, lots of small ones are better.
  14. eagle gives some good advice, i think getting and ro-di water maker could save you problems in the long run, you can also buy from the shop if you visit often enough, wetpet is an ok store and you can get what you need, the new store tropestua look to be very promising, run buy one of the nicest guys i have met in the hobby and someone who is knowledgable and trustworthy for the live/living stone there are two schools of thought it is very good and dose an experiential job of filtering the water and making a natural picture of the tank but it can come with some unwanted pests getting ceramic and adding bacteria to make it live dose just as good job but might take a little longer to offer equal filtering capabilities. for this see what the shops have and what looks best to you, both are relatively expensive but vital components
  15. Maria and Alex


    some very nice growth there, there corals can do exceptionally well in the aquarium
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